MK: Hi.

JS: Hi, this is so fun. And we're not at the Green Grape.

MK: Or at Hungry Ghost.
JS: Oh, that's what I mean, the Hungry Ghost, haha.

MK: So, let’s kick this big sit off…Where are we right now? 

JS: Well, we are in Jupiter, which is in the smack middle of the Rockefeller Center, right on the ice rink outside. Where we’re sitting here is called Nonna's Nook. It's like a semi-private dining room, but I feel like it feels even more out of space. It's really amazing.

MK: I love a good nook. So, who designed this space?

JS: So we worked with somebody called Workstead, who actually do a lot of residential, interior design, but we love their work and I think they kind of conceptually came up with something that felt quite unique, and I think they've really captured the spirit and the vibrancy of Jupiter. Yeah. A lot of color, a lot of different textures and like this bar feels very much like Mars.

MK: Mars. Very extraterrestrial. So what is the significance of the name, Jupiter. Where did that come from?

JS: So Jupiter… obviously Prometheus is outside on the ice rink, that big gold beautiful statue. Prometheus is the head of the Greek Gods. And Jupiter is the head of the Roman Gods. So I think that they had a battle at some point and there was some food involved. But anyway, that's the story.

MK: And the rest is history.

JS: The rest is history. I had a brief career in PR at L'Oreal, then I ended up at the River Cafe in London, a seminal Italian restaurant owned by two women. They were the first to bring simple, regional, authentic Italian food to London in the early 80s. They were real trailblazers.

MK: And you started back of house? On the line? 

JS: I started as their PA, looking after both of them, spending a lot of time in the kitchen. Over time, I became enamored with the rhythm of restaurant life and the way they viewed the restaurant as a living organism. It was about more than just the food; it was about everything—the look, the feel, the lighting, the experience, and the people.

MK: The people. Yes…That's where you sparkle. 

JS: Oh, well I sparkle. I mean normally I've got a pork chop in the oven or something. Back in the early days we would be literally like cooking and also sort of like checking that you have what you need, it's a great opportunity to connect… it's such a small restaurant, that’s why we do open kitchens, right? Because as a cook, you can see outside.

*serves wine*

MK: How is it?

JS: Yum, I literally only tasted that one once… so nice to taste it again. I didn't even realize we had it on the list. Really delicious, right?
MK: Oh, that's awesome. I love it.

JS: It's kind of got a little bit of like salinity too, right? I love Italian wine. I exclusively drink Italian wine.

MK: If it's all white, all red, orange, rosé, I drink it. I have no bias but lean Italian.

JS: Cheers to that!

MK: Cheers! Good choice. So, what region?

JS: Tuscany. I didn't realize we had it... Where were we?

MK: Food. Restaurants. Tell me, how did King come to be?

JS: I always say that it was just about the naivety of youth.

MK: The naivety of youth, yeah. You just go do shit and try it?

JS: Yeah. Honestly, I don't even know if we (King Co-founders, Annie Shi and Claire de Boer) were so young and so inexperienced. And I think you only go and do something like that with a lot of bravery. We hadn't obviously opened a restaurant before but we were like, why not?

MK: And that was what year?

JS: It was 2016. I was like 32.



MK: So 10 years in business. Weren’t you recently ranked 23rd?

JS: 22nd. 

MK: In the world?

JS: No, no, no. In New York last year. 

MK: 22 is a good one. Cheers to that. Let’s talk about your new venture. Well, it’s a new creative outlet. It's a new thing. What is it?

JS: Great question. Everyone seems to be getting a little bit bogged down on the detail of it. I bought a fishing hut on the water in England, and it is an 11 foot wide by 22 foot long. So not actually that much bigger than this bit.

MK: Like a proper living room size?

JS: A proper hut in England, in Suffolk, on the East coast. It's a fisherman's hut. I've grown up in that area my whole life and love the connection to fish, produce, and the immediate availability of fresh fish coming off a boat and being able to cook it right there. It's not going to be another restaurant or a pop-up; it's for cooking for family and friends. It's a nice reminder of why I started cooking. When you open a restaurant in New York City, you can become disconnected from the cooking part because it becomes about business—paying your team, rent, and keeping everything going. As a cook, I miss that whole exchange.

MK: Love that, just the food. So you're getting fish straight from the fishermen. Who is this fisherman?

JS: A man called Mr. Fryer, he's my friend. I spent time with him a couple of months ago, and I'm going back in August. He's one of the last remaining day boat fishermen on that beach. It's becoming apparent that it's getting tough. His children aren't taking it on. It's not to say it's a dying breed, but we need to be mindful, especially in the UK, where it's a small country with a vast coastline. We need to think about how and where we're fishing and what access people have to that. It's an urgent concern. Maybe you should come fish!

MK: I'm happy to. Let's feature it. Let's go have a Suffolk Sit!

Ok so when you’re in the city, what’s your favorite Manhattan Big Sit not named Jupiter or King?

JS: Manhattan Big Sit. Holy moly. Does it have to be exclusively outside?

MK: No, inside, outside, vibes, music, people, where makes you happy.

JS: Okay. I would say Cervos. It was one of the first restaurants that took my heart. I used to live in Two Bridges back when we opened King, and it felt like a home away from home. It was vibrant, the food was tasty and simple—just what I craved when I wasn't cooking my own dinner.

MK: I love Cervos. I’ve claimed that if I were a restaurant in New York City, I’d be Cervos. 

JS: I just went to their new restaurant last night, Eel Bar. It's right around the corner, and it’s so good. Everyone should go to Eel Bar.

MK: Now, Brooklyn?

JS: Romans, obviously. It's embarrassing because I say that about everything. But truly, I’m a creature of habit. I like being around everyone. I'm just used to it. It's lovely. That small stretch of DeKalb works so well. I can't deny it.

MK: Romans, of course. 

JS: It's so embarrassing because I say that to everything. But, I mean, truly, it is like, you know, I'm a creature of habit. And I like being around everyone. I'm just used to it.

MK: I see you at maybe the biggest sit every day - 

JS: Which one?

MK: Hungry Ghost. There's one bench in Fort Greene that is it and if you don’t answer my texts, I can find you there at Hungry Ghost.

JS: I sit there because there's a 20-minute shot of sun between two sections of trees. It's like a vitamin D injection.

MK: So you get sun, I get shade.

JS: And we both have a bit of caffeine. That's it. It's time to start the day. Where’s yours?
MK: I don’t give that out for free! You have to subscribe to the newsletter. I’ve been told my rating system is a bit too optimistic and cheery, and too positive. 

JS: No don’t be told that. Keep doing the hard work.

MK: So you don’t have to! Ok…now your favorite martini?

JS: Hawksmoor. They batch them in canisters, then freeze them, adding a tiny bit of water, like when you stir. This helps them freeze. The viscosity is outstanding. Apparently, it's the coldest martini in Manhattan.

MK: It is the coldest martini in Manhattan. That's my favorite martini, too. I think you put me onto it. It’s the coldest thing. What do they say about martinis?

JS: They're like boobs.

MK: Is that what they say?

JS: Yeah, one is too few, three is too many, two is just enough. Oh, are we doing the tasters? Yeah. Okay, great.

(JS to Molly, the sous chef on the line “Are we doing the tasters? Okay, great.”)
MK: What just happened there?

JS: Before service every night, we taste every dish. This is a new dish on the menu—sea bass carpaccio with lemon and green beans. This is Molly, our sous chef. Let’s try it. Tough job, right?

Tastes

JS: I think that’s beautiful. Maybe add a tiny bit of chilli. So this is a zucchini, pasarecce, and bottarga, my favorite thing in the world. Very salty, very briny. Very nice.

JS: I love bottarga and I love clams. This would be one of them. The pappardelle is so nice. It changes quite a lot, so you never know.

(MK - I got to taste and it’s perfect. I debated ending interview for a full plate;)
MK: Ok…you leave the restaurant. You’re at home, what do you cook for yourself?

JS: If I'm having a night in and want something simple, I usually make a big salad, or I love boiled eggs, cornichons, and salami—just a few picky things. It’s rare that I cook for myself at home.

MK: When people come over, what’s your go-to?

JS: You can come over. I usually do a big grill or a Sunday lunch. As a Brit, that’s really important. I like simple, easy dishes that let you enjoy hanging out with friends. Already cooked and ready to go, like just throwing it in the oven. And I love cooking fish.

Tastes a pasta dish
JS: The beauty of the pasta is that it's relatively dry and super thirsty. People tend to add more sauce, but it takes a lot of water. You should never eat on camera.

MK: We're breaking that rule today. I eat on camera.

JS: “No more cooked”. It’s good though. Yummy. Thank you, everybody. That was great. We arrived at the right time.

MK: Let’s walk and talk. Any chef crushes? Not that you’re necessarily crushing on but appreciating their work.

JS: This could be my new dating profile. That’s a good question. Who do I think cooks really well? Hmmm... who am I crushing on? Who’s yours?

MK: You!

JS: Naturally. I’d say Thomas Perry in London. He just opened a place called Mountain and has two other favorites of mine called Brat. I love his cooking; he does it so well. I wish I could be a fraction of the chef he is. There’s such intentionality and precision. You should do a London edition! 

MK: What are your thoughts on The Bear?

JS: I love The Bear! I think it’s a strong representation of the industry. I’ve never worked in one of those shouty kitchens, but they’ve taken the time to make it feel real, and it shows. Plus, one of my best friend’s brothers is in it.

MK: It’s solid. Intense. I’ve picked up a few chef-isms from it… “heard,” “back,” “behind,” “86.” Do you have a cook phrase you overruse?

JS: The weeds. You know that one?

MK: Oh yeah. "In the weeds." I use it all the time. Real estate—I’m constantly in the weeds.

JS: We call it the Barry Wizzles. I hadn’t heard some of that stuff before I arrived in New York, like firing food. It’s a different language to learn. But yeah, I feel like I’m always in the weeds, haha.

MK: So how do you compare the food scenes in London and New York?

JS: I think London has an incredible food scene. I think the access to incredible produce and the way that food is considered there is super inspiring and delicious. What’s amazing about New York though is that, like, dining and restaurants are so part of everyone's day to day in a way that you don't necessarily see in London. You know, like we all eat out all the time. Whether that is like a burrito on the street, a full service restaurant, a fancy restaurant or like a breakfast… people eat out a lot more in New York. So I think that keeps the city so vibrant, like so many exciting things happening. But you know, London does it really well and I think, yeah, it's not meh, it's so good. I'm going to take you to London. And like, yeah, there's so many amazing restaurants. So many different cuisines and, again, I think they just have a really wrongly bad rep.

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 ~  BIG SIT:  SMALL BUSINESS FEATURES WITH M.KAHLER  ~  BIG SIT:  SMALL BUSINESS FEATURES WITH M.KAHLER  ~  BIG SIT:  SMALL BUSINESS FEATURES WITH M.KAHLER 

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